Monday, June 18, 2012

Revenons à nos moutons!


Spring this year in Paris is less than glowing ... and in a few days, summer will be here. Brrr!  I hope Mother Nature will get back on schedule by then! In the mean time une petite laine n'est pas de refus.  I love wool.  I also love hot weather, and though the two are not necessarily incompatible, they can also be enjoyed separately. There is a season for all things... are you listening Mother Nature?

When I worked in the Paris design office of a prominent wool weaver, my boss used to make me smile by saying, revenons à nos moutons ("back to our sheep") if ever we strayed to far from the matter at hand. That's another way to say "back to the subject" and I'm a sucker for a pun. 



Thoughts of summer and wool make me think of  the wonderful mill, Brun de Vian-Tiran located at what is for me a favorite vacation spot, l'Ile sur la Sorgue. This integrated wool manufacturer insures the quality of its production on the premises by carding, spinning, weaving, milling, even fulling with teasel thistle for certain  finishes of  its blankets, throws and shawls. (more about about teasel previously here.) 

photo: en provence

"In 1808, Charles Tiran and his son-in-law Pierre-Laurent Vian set up a wool mill to work fabrics on the banks of the Sorgue river. The wool industry was already important in the region, which had been a Papal territory until 1791: sheep raising, thistle and madder growing, and quarrying of fuller's earth had been carried out there for centuries, and the Fontaine de Vaucluse, the largest spring in Europe, supplied the water and powered the machines needed by the industry. Eight generations later, the direct descendants of Vian and Tiran are carrying on the wool master's trade in the Brun de Vian-Tiran factory."


The company combines old and new technology, creating a product of quality with a 
clear and traceable identity.

Canisses blanket  10% Linen - 90% Merinos

100% kid mohair



100% Yangir

Camargue blanket 100% merinos

 Chandigarh throw  100% Cachemere  photo: Maisons de Campagne   


 Luciole throw 100% mohair  photo: Maisons de Campagne

Suri Alpaca
Yak






Cashgora
Yangir 


and back to our sheep...and other animal friends:

Brun de Vian-Tiran weaves some of the best and rarest fibers known, among others: 

the Suri Alpaca, variant of the Peruvian Alpaca, is rare and hightly sought after; 

 also rare, the Cashgora is a crossbreed of Cashmere and Angora (Mohair) goats;
the Yak, sort of Asian bovine that lives on the slopes of the Himalayas and drops its fleece during its annual moult; 

the Yangir is the name of the Siberian Ibex which lives in the foothfills of the Himalayas in Kirghizistan. The average  fibre is twelve to thirteen microns, which surpasses the finest of Cashmeres. The peak of softness and elegance, with a lightness that makes it almost impalpable. 

There are plenty of possibilities for a summer that isn't summery...
Read more about Brun de Vian-Tiran's natural fibers here.


unmarked photos are from the Brun de Vian-Tiran site  

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Étoffe d'époque

photo: RMN Anne-Sophie Grillat for the Manufacture Prelle
This yellow Gros de Tours with lilac-filled medallions was woven for Napoleon when he planned the   installation of his fourth salon in his apartments at the chateau of Versailles. In order to help the silk manufacturers of Lyon get back on their feet after the revolution, Napoleon  placed colossal  fabric orders, delivered from 1811 till 1813 and which were to make up a tremendous stock for all  the successive governments. This particular fabric was woven and delivered by Jean-Pierre Seguin of Lyon in 1812 at a time when  Napoleon was no longer concerned with decorating his appartments. A large part of the unused meterage was stored in the garde meuble de la couronne furniture depository. 

photo St Tyl

 Josephine Bonaparte bought the chateau de Malmaison in 1799 and it briefly became the seat of the French government from 1800 until 1802. Finding the residence too small, Napoleon installed the Premier Consul at St Cloud. Josephine continued living and embellishing Malmaison. She retired there definitively after her divorce in 1809 and there she died  in 1814.

Napoleon III, Josephine's grandson who had fond memories of his childhood sojourns at the chateau,  acquired Malmaison in 1861. Since the original furishings had long been dispersed, he decided to replace it with pieces that had furnished Josephine's salon at the palace of St Cloud and which remained there still at the time of the Second Empire. Before installing the furniture, he had it covered with the yellow medaillon fabric Napoleon I had had woven in 1812. We might speculate that in using these elements having belonged to Josephine and the Empire fabric to cover them, Napoleon III showed  concern for  authentic period decoration.

photo St Tyl
Hector VIGER 
 The Empress Josephine receiving the Tsar Alexander at the Malmaison

The above painting contains a  scene commissioned from Hector Vigier by Napoleon III. It shows the meeting of the Tsar Alexander with Josephine surrounded by her children, Eugene and Hortense, and with her grand children, Napoleon-Louis and Louis-Napoleon. 

Even with genuine Empire furnishings and fabric, the scene is anachronistic in that it shows the Salon Doré with its post-1861 decoration.

photo St Tyl
Today the condition of the upholstery necessitates its replacement and the chateau, a museum since 1906,  is  reproducing the precious silk to match the original quality of 1812 in every way. The reproduction is provided by the esteemed silk weaver, Prelle.


photo: RMN Anne-Sophie Grillat for the Manufacture Prelle
preliminary sampling 

photo RMN Marc-Antoine Mouterde for the Manufacture Prelle

photo: St Tyl
As the re-weaving continues, the newly upholstered furniture is replaced little by little in the salon. 


for more: Salon doré Malmaison


Saturday, December 31, 2011

Pretty purse

photo StTyl

photo StTyl
 Bourse with lovely embroidered vermiculated base.

Seen at the flea market today.

Monday, November 28, 2011

Remnants: sacred belt


Madonna of the sacred belt
Museum of Prato
According to tradition, the Virgin Mary gave her belt to Saint Thomas at the moment of her 
assumption to heaven. The belt is kept in the Sacro Cingolo chapel in the Basilica of Prato.


photo: voix de la russie
As reported in Bigbrowser Blog at Le Monde last week: more than 200 000 Russian pilgrims gathered before an Orthodox relic said to stimulate fertility and protect expectant mothers. 52 people were hospitilized after extensive waiting in weather well below freezing, said Russian authorities. The relic, the belt of the Blessed Virgin, is normally found in the Vatopedi monastary of Mont Athos, Greece where no women are allowed. The venerated textile is on a one month tour of 12 Russian cities. 


photo: topic-topos

This relic of  the Blessed Virgin's belt was presented to Geofroy I Boterel by the Patriarch of Jerusalem on his return from the Seventh Crusade in 1252. A mere 8 cm fragment of linen is today kept in the church of Ancenis of Quintin. It was once carried from house to house for the benefit of pregnant women -who often kept a snippet- until Louis XIII put an end to this practice in the 17th century.

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Biehn in Morocco: Bain Textile

The African
all photos: Paul Biehn and Hans Sylvester

To think that Michel Biehn fans were sorry to see him give up his beautiful museum quality shop in
L'Isle -sur-la-Sorgue... 

The Caliph
yet his new incarnation as hotelier in Fez shows that he knows how to make the right moves.
The decorator/antique dealer specialized in textiles has combined his talents in a spectacular and very personal way at Le jardin des Biehn.

Persian room

The renovated palace includes a beautiful Andalusian garden, hammam, spa, restaurant as well as exhibits, concerts, sophrology relaxation sessions, cooking and yoga classes....

The Favorite

Michel Biehn used his tremendous collection of textiles and costumes to inspire the interior decoration throughout the hotel. Color palettes and exotic atmospheres are derived from mostly Islamic textiles. 

The Chinese

The Pasha

salon de repos

Circassian room


The atmosphere amounts to an artful and joyous textile bath.






Important note, Biehn's collection largely surpasses the needs of fitting out the hotel. There are changing exhibits in the gallery and - 
there's a boutique.


see also: NYTimes article

photos: Paul Biehn and Hans Sylvester Le jardin des Biehn

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Gothic Lite


Photo: L'Exception


Ghost Letter print at Devastée Autome/Hiver 2012
by Ophelie Klere and Francois Alary