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| photo Dedar |
I'd been predicting a comeback for moire. Not that it had ever disappeared entirely, but let's just say that it needed to be rejuvenated. Well, its day has come again. Dedar has produced a beautifully crafted moire called, Amoir Libre, that sends out a ripple of shimmering waves with the beauty of an abstract painting.
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| photo Dedar |
The true mechanical technique of water marking a fabric is based on folding a dampened, usually ribbed fabric in two so its selvedges meet, then calendaring it between two heated cylinders. Pressure is applied to the ribs of the fabric in such a way as to flatten the warp and weft threads, creating patterns that sculpt its surface. The result is an irregular play of matt and sheen that make formations of veins, loops, stripes and eyes. Patterns that have been mastered and catalogued have entrancing names - moire antique, moire française moire musique, moire miroir, moire égyptienne -
and moire libre.
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| photo Dedar |
Dedar has chosen to create a moire libre, a free-style moire in which no two meters of fabric are alike. There is plenty of pattern, but no repeat.
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| photo Dedar |
In moire libre, the hand of the craftsman who guides the cloth provokes irregular undulations,
creating a one of a kind pattern. It is an expert's game of chance, only partially predictable.
Its name is a pretty play on words; Amoir libre, like amour libre, promises not to be monotonous.
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| photo Dedar |
The plain fabric comes in 27 colors and is accompanied by two coordinates, such as Lozange (above) and Pavillon. For the coordinates, the moire has undergone a two-step printing process with lacquered pigments and flocking for relief. For a further look, Dedar.
I love this fabric;have always loved moire!
ReplyDeleteMary
Mary, I haven’t touched this one yet and that will be the final test. I trust Dedar not to have made anything too sickeningly slick – a problem with lesser qualities.
DeleteThe old English name for moire is "Watered Silk." Most of the modern moire available here in America lacks panache and even scale. Such a magical effect should be treated with respect – ladylike and genteel it should not be.
ReplyDeleteNot soooo old. I remember calling it that as a girl and I still think it’s a pretty term –full of imagery. Maybe moire is better suited since many fibers other than silk can be treated this way. Wool is also particularly beautiful. I wouldn’t like to say watered wool! This fabric is of cotton and viscose (35%). Nothing diluted here – it can roar MOIRE!
DeleteIt is one of the choices for the bodice of some of the Norwegian folk costumes - small scale moire though - it looks a bit like a pattern for dressing gowns, so I did not choose it even if beautifully blue. I do agree with Blue.
ReplyDeleteYou have to be careful with how you use it, I agree. I think moire is to fabric what art deco is sometimes to furniture – a ‘style’ considered cheesy or outdated because of too many cheap imitations. At its best it is more like shibori; a cloth with a memory of the folds or sculpting it has undergone and that has changes through and through.
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